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Dining

By Devra First
Globe Staff / October 7, 2011

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STORYVILLE 90 Exeter St., Boston

617-236-1134

The space formerly known as Saint was formerly known as Storyville, the ’50s jazz club where Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald performed. Now the name is back, without the jazz. The new Storyville is focused instead on eating, drinking, lounging, and dancing. There is a DJ booth, and occasionally there will be live music.

The establishment has been completely redone, with leather couches, ornate wallpaper, and red accents. It is divided into two rooms, a bigger one that is more nightclub, and the smaller Bordello Room, which re-creates the atmosphere of a speakeasy.

The food and drink hew to the era of the original club. Chef Louis DiBiccari (Sel de la Terre) crafts small plates that riff on retro dishes such as beef Wellington, duck a l’orange, and baked beans “on steroids’’: molasses baked beans with guanciale, foie gras, bacon bits, and homemade bread crumbs. William “English Bill’’ Codman, recently of Woodward, takes charge of the libations. He features tiki drinks and classics.

At Storyville, everything old is new again.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.


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