Say 'thanks' in red and white

For most of American history, cider and beer would have been the traditional accompaniment to the festive harvest suppers the Thanksgiving meal is intended to recall. It was only in the late 20th century, as Americans gradually shifted their allegiance from these homey beverages to wine, that a new fault line in national values emerged over the question of whether roast turkey and a boiled turnip were better served by a bottle of red or a bottle of white. We come down firmly on both sides of this question. Either is right. Both even better.

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