Strip T’s, a tiny place located on 93 School St., was once known for tuna melts and catered office meals. But the restaurant has been raging ever since Tim Maslow took over the kitchen, added an ice cream maker, painted the walls, and developed a gutsy, modern menu.

By leading with quality ingredients — everything from crusty bread for banh mi sandwiches to homemade burnt cinnamon ice cream for apple tarte tatin— Maslow is shaking up the city he calls “every town USA.”

Maslow learned the restaurant business from his father, who opened the corner sandwich shop 27 years ago. Maslow perfected his cooking skills at New York City’s Momofuku Ssam Bar, where he worked for seven years.

Last month, the 28-year-old chef was named a James Beard “Rising Star Chef of the Year” semifinalist.

If he wins (nominees will be announced March 18) this section of School Street could propel Watertown’s dining scene into the big time.

Pictured: The apple tarte tatin dessert. Also in the desset menu are lemon steamed cake, mocha chocolate cake, and brownies.

The taste for the new knows no boundaries. Though still committed to Watertown, Maslow is opening a new restaurant this spring called Ribelle in Brookline’s Washington Square.

With 68 seats, Ribelle will nearly double Strip-T’s capacity and will be in a highly visible location. Maslow says he is ready. “I want to work in a restaurant I had a hand in designing. I saw a space and thought it was beautiful.”