Waking up in Gulmarg

By Sam Lozier, Boston.com Correspondent

Our day starts when the sun rises on Mt.Apharwat, and light floods into our $10 a night room. A minute after our feet hit the floor, one of the four guys who work at the otherwise empty hotel is in our room firing up our bakari (fireplace) with kerosene soaked chunks of pine. Soon the room is toasty and we’re on our way downstairs to the dining room where another bakari heats the place up.


We’re greeted with cups of piping hot delicious chai tea, and in the time it takes to cook up our breakfast, we have eggs and toast in front of us. As the lift doesn’t seem to open until around 10 a.m., we

then have about a half an hour to get ready to ski before finally making our way over to the gondola.



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