Most of our local white fish can’t take the heat of a grill, and while it’s good sauteed, it’s even better dusted with crisp panko breadcrumbs. For this oven-fried fish and chips, use haddock (also splendid when it’s deep-fat fried in the restaurant version of the dish), or hake, halibut, or cod. Brush pieces of fish with oil, press on the crumbs, and let it cook, first in the oven, then briefly under the broiler, until golden. Tuck golden potato wedges beside the fish, and dig into a New England classic.
3large Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potatoes, cut into thick wedgesVegetable oil (for sprinkling)Salt and pepper, to taste3tablespoons vegetable oil1cup plain panko breadcrumbs1½pounds haddock fillets (skin intact or skinned), cut into 2-inch pieces2tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Set the oven at 450 degrees. Have on hand 2 rimmed baking sheets.
2. In a bowl, sprinkle the potatoes with vegetable oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet, cut sides up, and cook for 50 minutes, turning several times with a wide metal spatula, or until they are golden brown.
3. Pour the 3 tablespoons oil into a shallow plate.
4. On another plate, combine the panko with a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.
5. Dip the fish into the oil, then into the panko, pressing it onto the flesh so it adheres. Set the fish on the other baking sheet, skin (or skinned) side up. Press any crumbs remaining on the plate onto the fish.
6. Cook the fish for 15 minutes or until it is firm to the touch. Turn on the broiler. Cook the fish about 8 inches from the element for 1 to 2 minutes — watch it carefully so the crumbs do not burn — or until the crumbs are golden. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with potato wedges. Sheryl Julian. Adapted from “The Way We Cook’’
This column offers ways to prepare native ingredients from the farmers’ market, farm stand, or fishmonger.
To see previous recipes for hake, striped bass, eggplant, corn, tomatoes, cabbage, and more,go to www.bostonglobe.com/food.